Christmas in Andalucia
If you’re
expecting Christmas in Andalucia to be somewhat like it is back home, you’re in
for a surprise. Everything from the beginning to the end of the season is going
to be different from anything you’ve ever experienced before.
The
Christmas season here starts much later than those from northern Europe and
North America might expect. The smell of chestnuts roasting over fires tended by street
vendors will begin to waft past you as of November, and that will continue
until the Three Kings make their visit to local homes in January. However, the
season doesn’t really kick off until Christmas Eve.
Small shops
and large commercial centres will begin to deck themselves out in Christmas
gear at the beginning of December, but this is deceiving. With so many local
families still waiting to exchange gifts until the Three Kings arrive on
January 6th, there’s no hurry to buy.
Tree or
"Belén"?
In
Andalucia, as in the rest of Spain, there is a bit of a debate regarding how
deeply foreign Christmas customs should be allowed to take root. This debate
mainly centres on who should be allowed to bring the gifts: Father Christmas or
the Three Kings? Traditionalists have it clear that the Kings should maintain
their post and that Santa Claus had better watch where he treads. This however,
does not stop millions of families from allowing “Papá Noel” to sneak past the
sentinels.
A lesser
discussed issue is the competition between the Christmas tree and the nativity
scene, called a “Belén” (Bethlehem) in Spanish. You can be sure that in most
homes here the manger scene will feature more prominently and be treated with
greater tender loving care than the tree will ever hope to see.
The nativity
is often a surprisingly large collection of pieces that have been lovingly
gathered over the years. At Christmas time, these scenes are brought out at
homes, schools and workplaces across the region of Andalucia and assembled with
great excitement and care. It is not uncommon for families, staff at companies
and especially teachers and students to actually build a structure of some kind
in order to then set up the entire town of Bethlehem, with Mary, Joseph and
baby Jesus tucked into their manger scene somewhere amongst the vast, sprawling
scenery.
From the 1st of December the Christmas decorations appear.
The Flavours
of Christmas
Traditional
Christmas fare in Andalucia will vary from home to home, but it is the rare
house that will be without an entire leg of cured ham – jamón.
The humblest homes might splurge on a Serrano ham while those with more
spending power will very likely opt for a leg of “pata
negra”, which some believe to be the very best cured ham on the
planet. These hams are served in thin slices as appetisers and also used to add
a special flourish to soups, for example.
Special
family dinners throughout the season generally begin with a selection of smoked
salmon, pates, cured meats and special cheeses. The main course could consist
of roast lamb or turkey. Seafood is also high on the list with platter after
platter of cold boiled prawns served with homemade mayonnaise and cocktail
sauce. These could easily be followed by slices of prime rib for a good protein
overdose.
Another
essential is found in the sweets and pastries that load the shop shelves at
Christmas. Turrones, made of Almonds and honey, are brought in from the region
of Valencia, along with marzipan tarts, powdery “polverones” (dust balls) and
other pastries from across the region and beyond, many backed by the names of
convents that have gained prestige thanks to their famous recipes. It is quite
common for shops, banks and other businesses to put out a plate of these sweets
along with bottles of anis for clients to enjoy.
If you’d
like to try your hand at making a Spanish Christmas pastry, why not try to make
Roscos? They’re relatively easy to make and
you’ll find an authentic recipe.Not to be missed is the special “Three
Kings’ Cake”, called a “Roscón de Reyes”, which is made of a sweet bread dough,
topped with candied fruits and sugar and often filled with whipping cream or
custard. Most important is the surprise that is baked inside for the children.
According to some traditions, the one who gets the treat has to pay for the
cake, while others believe that the lucky one then gets to wear the paper crown
that comes with this special pastry.
Christmas
with a Flare
The
Christmas Spirit
Finally,
like everywhere in the world, Christmas is a time of giving and there are many
wonderful local charities that appreciate the extra bit of
help they generally get at Christmas. Some even need volunteers to help make
the season festive for those they serve. It’s actually a wonderful way to make
a difference and have a chance to mix with locals as you celebrate the season!
